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Operating the Percussion Firearm [This is a very condensed extract from our book - "The Textbook of Theatrical Combat ©". All rights reserved] Percussion firearms are not registered nor regulated the way other guns are, but that doesn't mean that they are in any way less dangerous. They are not at all in the same league as blank-fire stage guns, for percussion firearms have open barrels. Anything that goes in is going to come out the same way, just hotter and faster. That includes whatever wad is used, plus anything else that accidentally gets in the barrel (pebble, thumbtack, wood splinter, etc.). Percussion guns must always be considered and treated as true firearms, because they are. These things are not for the timid, but if your theatre allows it and you feel comfortable with the information below, they can provide a wonderful effect that can't be matched by any blank-fire replica. The percussion cap blackpowder gun was the most common form of firearm in the 19th century. The increased reliability compared to the earlier flintlock mechanism ensured its widespread use among both military and civilian shooters soon after its development in the early 1800’s. The principle is very simple. When an explosive compound is ignited in a confined area with one opening, anything between the explosion and the opening (ball or bullet) is going to fly out with a heck of a lot of speed and force. So, you pour some blackpowder down the barrel of the gun, cover a ball with a patch of wadding, and slide the ball down the barrel with a rod until it fits snugly against the powder. The only problem is how to set off that explosive charge exactly when you want to.
Since the cap has a detonating charge, some theatres use only that for the sound of gunfire. But it is a small, high-pitched "tinny" sound, not at all like that of a blank. To load the cap, simply pull the hammer back to half-cock (one click), place the cap over the nipple, and press it in snugly. Pull the hammer back again slightly as you depress the trigger, then gently lower the hammer down on the cap. With your thumb, firmly push the hammer against the cap to "set" it firmly in place. To fire the gun, pull the hammer back to full-cock (two clicks), and then depress the trigger. Practice once or twice with just a cap until it makes sense. Caps have a low rate of misfire, but it is always prudent to have someone ready offstage with a back-up sound. NOTE: With the hammer resting on the cap, any sudden strike against the hammer can accidentally fire the cap, so the prudent thing to do is to leave the hammer at half cock as a safety. But then there is no pressure against the cap, so it can easily fall off while the actor moves about on stage. Which is worse: risking an accidental discharge or risking no shot at all? Your choice, I’m afraid. Again, the cap by itself produces the sound equivalent of a toy "cap" gun, so if you need more sound and fury, a small amount of blackpowder may be poured into the barrel. Before you do, make sure that the barrel is completely clear by blowing air through either the nipple or muzzle. Don’t load if you can’t establish an unobstructed airflow. How much powder do you need? Start with one teaspoon for a pistol, one tablespoon for a musket, and adjust from there, but keep in mind that the vent hole misses the true bottom of the barrel, so you need to put in enough powder so that the spark can actually reach the powder. This changes with each gun, so some experimentation may be needed here. However much you use, firmly pack it with a ramrod, and then slide in a small bit of wadding (magician’s flash paper is best, but a sheet of toilet paper will do) down the barrel to hold the charge in place. I love using the flash paper because it makes a wonderful flame effect as it leaves the gun and you don't have to worry about a burning wad flying across the set. Do not "ram-pack" the wad. They do that in the movies, but that will cause an explosion instead of a fast burn, which is what you want. Instead, push and tap the wad several times. The idea is to make sure that it is snug and to remove any air pockets around the powder. Removing air pockets is critical, for trapped air could compress during the burn and drive force back through the nipple. The last step is to put the cap on the nipple, and then you're ready to go. Make sure that the area in front of and extending 30 degrees from the barrel is clear of all people, animals, and flammable material at all times before, during, and after the shot. All state, federal and local laws concerning the use of blackpowder and explosive devices must be observed, as should all the rules of common sense. Remember that people have died from being hit by "blank" loads. Something else to keep in mind: make sure you have great ventilation in your theatre. You don't want to breathe in that powder that's hanging in the air. Nasty stuff. When blackpowder is used, the barrel must be cleaned after each performance, or the gun will simply corrode away. Even if the gun is not fired, periodic spraying with WD-40 is an excellent way of preventing damage. Cleaning the Percussion Firearm The residue from explosive materials used in blank or percussive charges is extremely corrosive to the internal workings of the weapon; so let me remind you that all discharged weapons must be thoroughly cleaned within two hours of having been fired. Failure to do so will cause misfires, improper movement of working parts, and puts the user of the weapon at risk of serious injury. Just as when you operate a car you are responsible for filling it with oil and water, it is the theater’s responsibility to ensure that all weapons are cleaned, lubricated, and protected from damage. After each performance or rehearsal, first inspect the weapon for any obvious signs of damage as you unload the weapon "But I didn’t load the gun for this rehearsal". Always assume that somehow, someone has loaded the gun since the last time you held it. After unloading, take an old stiff toothbrush and scrape away any powder you see. If you spot any rust, sand it off with some worn emery cloth or fine steel wool. If blackpowder has been fired, you will need to clean the barrel, which can be removed from the stock, but this is not mandatory. There are many gun cleaning solutions on the market, but hot soapy water works better than any of them, and has the added benefit of being non-toxic. Use some cloth patches or a bit of sponge or old rag, connect it to a stiff wire or rod, and run it up and down the inside of the barrel with plenty of lightly soapy, very hot water. Some water will squirt majestically out of the nipple, which is good because it means that the vent is not plugged and that it is getting cleaned as well. Keep checking the rags or sponge; when it comes out clean, you are ready to lube. If you feel mechanically inclined remove the side plates and spray the mechanism with WD-40. Change the wet rag to a dry one and spray plenty of WD-40 on it (or any light machine oil if necessary). Run it up and down just as you did with the soapy water. If you think there are any spots that still might have some water on it, go ahead and spray some more WD-40. Spray it everywhere - when in doubt, spray again: too much is good! Unlike machine oils, it will loosen rust, push away the residue, lubricate the moving parts, displace any hidden water, and generally make life more pleasant. Reassemble the weapon, wipe down the outside, and you are ready for the next performance. Safety Warning: PERCUSSION FIREARMS Eye and ear protection should be worn when firing any firearm. When using, always fire with arm fully extended and at a safe distance from any other person. Always keep the muzzle pointed in a safe direction before, during, and after firing. NEVER point any firearm, even if unloaded, at any person or animal. And remember that blank loads are just as deadly as a bullet. In the event that blackpowder has been loaded, but upon firing there is no discharge, remove the weapon from the stage, barrel pointing up, and leave it in a restricted area for at least three minutes. Embers may still be smoldering within the charge and can ignite the powder during that time. At the end of this cooling down period, unload the charge before trying to find out the reason for the failure. Establish a clear air flow from muzzle end to nipple before re-loading. Neither the manufacturer nor Weapons of Choice, nor any representative thereof, can accept any responsibility for injury or damage or any destruction arising from intentional or accidental use of this model. Persons not qualified to do so should not disassemble this weapon. GUN SAFETY BASICS: Ø Always unload when finished handling. Ø Never rely on a "safety" to prevent accidental discharge. Ø Never leave a firearm unattended or not in your direct control. Ø Insure that the blast from the firearm is clear of all objects, living things, or flammable material. Ø Never carry a firearm with the hammer cocked. Ø Always assume that any weapon you see is real, white-hot, loaded and deadly. Ø Do not dry-fire any weapon, even pure props. It severely damages the gun. All weapons must be cleaned and lubricated after every performance. Failure to do so puts the user at great peril and leads to the destruction of the firearm. I always advise never actually pointing any weapon at anyone at any time. This goes for real guns, blank guns, toy guns, swords, knives, rubber chickens, any weapon, any time, anywhere. The depth perception limits of the audience allow for a little upstage cheating, and I think it's important for actors to receive consistent instruction (tongue-lashings) wherever they work so as to avoid Jon-Erik Hexum and Brandon Lee type fatalities. |
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The Textbook
of Theatrical Combat
The
percussion cap is a relatively safe way of doing just that. The cap (usually
made of copper or aluminum) is coated on its inside with a quick igniting
detonating compound. This is placed over a hollow nipple, which is connected to
a vent that leads right to the blackpowder in the barrel. On pressing the
trigger, the hammer strikes the cap, crushing the compound against the end of
the nipple. The resulting sparks travel down the nipple to the vent to the
blackpowder in the barrel. Then it goes boom.
